Garment Specifics: Understitching, Topstitching, and Edgestitching

When manufacturing a garment, the more specifics you can tell a factory the better. That is why a tech pack is such an integral part of the manufacturing process. One of the most overlooked aspects of a garment is the stitching. While it is not the most obvious part of a garment, different kinds of stitches can change the overall look.

So we’re going to review the three basic stitching types so that you can easily describe what you’re looking for to your factory partner.



If you want your stitching to stand out against your garment, then a topstitch is probably the best option. This is because the stitch is sewn further away from the edge of the fabric — typically one-fourth of an inch.

Special top stitch thread is also available, which is used to stand out against the fabric. In general, topstitching is specifically used for style. Sometimes it appears on both sides of a seam.



The main difference between edgestitching and topstitching is the proximity to the seam. Where topstitching is one-fourth of an inch away from the seam, edgestitching is one-eighth of an inch. This is usually done to hide the stitch around the waistband, neckline, or binding. However, it can also be decorative if the color of the thread contrasts the color of the fabric.


As the name suggests, understitching refers to a stitch that appears on the underside of the garment.That means that the stitch is not visible on the right side of the garment. This is actually a type of edgestitching that stitches together the lining of a garment to the front facing fabric.

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